Kazakhstan Birdtours

   Deserts and Canyonlands  

The south-east of Kazakhstan has large areas of desert and arid grassland. Kazakhstan Bird Tours visits the Taukum Desert to the north-east of Almaty, part of the Land of Seven Rivers, and the canyonlands to the west of the city.

We stay in a camp in the Taukum Desert, tents and yurts provide the accomodation. This desert ranges from arid short grass, to arid longer grass, to sandy desert and contains many exciting bird species. Both Greater Sandplover and Caspian Plover breed in the area as do Demoiselle Cranes and all are relatively easy to find as are Black-bellied Sandgrouse. A dawn trek into the desert allows us to watch the peculiar display of Macqueen's Bustard, all the time with the sound of larks all around: Calandra, Greater Short-toed and Lesser Short-toed are all common.

The tents and yurts of our camp	Sturdy transportation is needed in the desert

In this vast, barren area local knowledge is key and that's where our guides come in. In the middle of nowhere is an abandoned dwelling. From this old building grows a tree and in that tree can be found the nests of the migratory race of House Sparrow and of Spanish Sparrows. There are areas of scrub rising from the sandy desert and these hold Great (Steppe) Grey Shrike, the halimondendri race of Lesser Whitethroat, Sykes's Warbler and Bimaculated Lark. Animals can also be found out here and in 2004 we found three Horsefield's Tortoise and a young Persian Gazelle.

The only tree for miles	Young Persian Gazelle

South of the Taukum Desert the land first changes to longer grassland and then becomes rocky and mountainous. In the longer grasses White-winged Larks can be found amongst the other larks. Lark song is everywhere. Moving on to the rocky areas we find a valley with many rocky outcrops. On many of these rocks are Bronze Age petroglyphs showing various animals hunted by ancient people in this area.

Ancient petroglyphs

The birds are good in this area too. Eastern Rock Nuthatches and Pied Wheatears breed here, Red-headed and Grey-necked Buntings are quite easy to find and Chukars can be both heard and seen. Small streams allow bushy growth attracting Isabelline and Red-backed Shrikes, Blyth's Reed-warbler, Hoopoe, European Roller and Common Rosefinch and Golden Eagles can be seen soaring around the peaks.

Rocky hillsides and reed-fringed streams in the mountains	Petroglyph canyon

The desert camp lies at the edge of the Land of Seven Rivers, the main river being the Ile. We also explore this area, driving north through an area of low, undulating hills and small lakes, known as the Barkhans, across the mighty Ile River and on to explore other habitats.

The Barkhans area can be very productive, especially around the lakes and ponds that are dotted amongst the scrub-covered dune-like hills. The drier areas are home to the huge Eurasian Eagle-owl and to Brown-necked Ravens, often seen mobbing the owls! The lakes and surrounding vegetation attract many species. The open water holds Black Tern, Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck. Reedbeds hold Great Bittern, Paddyfield Warbler and a large-billed, pale-backed race of Common Reed-bunting.

In some areas large trees can be found around the lakes, which attract yet more bird species. European Honey-buzzards and Shikras can be found here as can Azure Tit, Turkestan Tit, European Golden Oriole, White-winged Woodpecker and White-crowned Penduline-tit - a mouth-watering selection.

Larger areas of reedbed are also present in places, attracting Great Egret, Cetti's Warbler, more White-crowned Penduline-tits and their close relation, the beautiful Black-headed Penduline-tit.

Lake in the Barkhans	Ile River

Saxaul bushes attract Saxaul Sparrows that nest in holes. Fortunately these birds also nest in mausoleums in a certain Muslim cemetery, making them easy to find. Kazakhstan Birdtours visits this cemetery and the surrounding area of bushes and small trees and , although it is some drive to get there it is well worth the effort. Saxaul and Eurasian Tree Sparrows are easily found. Other birds here include Common Nightingales singing out in the open on top of trees, Isabelline Shrike, Rufous Bush-robin, Asian Desert Warbler, Sykes's Warbler, Common Whitehtroat and Pied Wheatear.

Another special habitat in this area is Turunga woodland. As well as being good for Turkestan Tit and White-winged Woodpecker this habitat is home to Eversmann's (Yellow-eyed) Dove. Also here one can find Hoopoes and Eurasian Rollers.

Muslim cemetery	Turanga woodland

To the east of Almaty lies a must-visit site: Charyn Canyon. This is an 80km long canyon cut into the sandstone by the Charyn River. It is very reminiscent of the Grand Canyon in the US although somewhat smaller. However, standing on the edge of a cliff looking down it does not feel small at all! Apart from some trees and bushes along the river the area is very arid. There is a high plain of short grassland that holds an race of Horned Lark that has no yellow and is the geographical centre of Asia, as far from the sea as it is possible to get on Earth.

Other birds found around the canyon and surrounding mountains include Lammergeier, Monk Vulture, Golden Eagle, Booted Eagle, Egyptian Vulture, Chukar, a sandy-coloured race of Little Owl, Eurasian Crag-martin, Red-headed and Grey-necked Buntings, Pied and Isabelline Wheatears and Rock Petronia.

Charyn River	Charyn canyonlands

Quite nearby to Charyn is the Nurly Desert and it is here we spend time waiting by waterholes to see what comes to drink. Although the ground is very sandy there are areas of scrubby bushes, usually near the waterholes that are created by leaking irrigation pipes. These give way to short-grass as one moves away from the water.

The waterholes attract many species of birds but there is one star bird to be found here. Many Black-bellied Sandgrouse come to drink and checking each as they fly in is worth while because a few will be Pallas's Sandgrouse. Also inhabiting this area are Isabelline Wheatears, Barred Warbler and Desert Finches. raptors include Long-legged Buzzard, Eurasian Hobby and Lesser Kestrel and occasional pairs of Demoiselle Cranes can be found.

Nurly Desert	Desert waterhole

There are other desert waterholes that need local knowledge to get to; they really are in the middle of nowhere. One such is located in the foothills of the Sogety mountains. Nestled in the arid rocky landscape is a small area of green. Looking around one would think this is the only source of water for miles, which is probably correct. It certainly attracts the birds.

Settle down to watch the small areas of open water and mud and admire Eurasian Linnets, Mongolian Finches, Grey-necked Buntings, Common Rosefinch and Rock Petronia coming to drink. In 2004 they were joined by three Crimson-winged Finches, a very hard-to-see bird in Kazakhstan. All this plus Rufous-tailed Rock-thrush and Pied Wheatears on the rocks above you in a most peaceful and beautiful setting - a highlight of any tour to this amazing country.

Waterhole in the desert	Mongolian Finch